• 作者: dfmzhu
• 來源: 佛山展翅調酒師學
• 日期: 2015-03-21
• 瀏覽次數: 6190 次

提基雞尾酒又稱“異國”雞尾酒，在1930年代至1970年代大為流行。確切地說，提基誕生于八十年前。1934年，一位名叫Ernest Raymond Beaumont-Gantt的年輕人在好萊塢創辦了酒吧Don the Beachcomber。Gantt（后來他將自己的正式名字改為Donn Beach）在南太平洋待過一段時間，他想打造一家世外桃源般的熱帶風情酒吧，供應由朗姆酒、秘密香料、碎冰和新鮮果汁調制而成的雞尾酒，以波利尼西亞風格的的器具盛放。酒吧大獲成功，并引來不少模仿者。提基風潮在1950年代達到頂點。不過在1970年代前后，人們對提基的熱情開始消退，提基雞尾酒成為了“小雨傘雞尾酒”的代名詞——這種蹩腳庸俗的玩意難以稱得上是真正的雞尾酒體驗。然而，提基文化在過去十年再度流行起來。隨著2000年代手工雞尾酒的復興，調酒師們不但對禁酒令時期經典重新產生了興趣，還對失傳的提基時代配方進行了發掘。雞尾酒歷史學家Jeff“Beachbum”Berry 是提基文化復興的頭號功臣，被認為是現代提基領域的杰出權威人士。綽號“Beachbum Berry”的他來自加利福尼亞，是一位自封的“熱帶酒飲傳教士”，將提基研究作為自己的畢生事業。2007年，雞尾酒作家將Wayne Curtis將56歲的Berry形容為“提基雞尾酒的印第安納·瓊斯”。去年，記者Robert Simonson為美食網站Eater采訪了Berry。他在文章中寫道：“沒有Jeff Berry，就沒有現在的提基復興。”

Tiki cocktails, or “exotics”, as they are also known, were the height of fashion from the 1930s to 1970s. In fact, to be more precise, tiki began 80 years ago when a young man named Ernest Raymond Beaumont-Gantt opened a bar in Hollywood called Don the Beachcomber in 1934. Gantt, who later changed his legal name to Donn Beach, had spent time in the South Pacific, and devised the idea of a bar that imported the escapist exotica of the tropics, with drinks made of rum, esoteric spices, crushed ice and fresh fruit juice, served in Polynesian-style vessels. Widely copied, the bar was a huge success. And tiki hit the acme of its popularity in the 1950s. Still, from around the 1970s, the tiki fad fizzled and the genre was relegated to a duff, kitschy shorthand of “umbrella drinks” consigned to the margins of serious drinking. In the last decade, however, tiki culture has seen a resurgence in popularity. As with the rekindled interest in Prohibition-era classics of the 1920s, the craft cocktail renaissance of the 2000s inspired bartenders to revisit the lost recipes of the tiki era. The revival in tiki culture is widely attributed to Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, the cocktail historian considered the preeminent authority on modern tiki. Originally from California, the self-styled “tropical drink evangelist”, Beachbum Berry – as he’s known – has made the study of tiki his life’s work. In 2007, drinks writer Wayne Curtis described the 56 year old as “the Indiana Jones of tiki drinks”. Last year, journalist Robert Simonson interviewed Berry in an article for Eater, a food site. “Without Jeff Berry,” he writes, “the current tiki revival simply never would have happened.”

早在1998年，Berry就出版了《Beachbum Berry的格羅格日志》一書。書中收錄了許多1940年代至1960年代的所謂“失傳”提基配方，都是他從Don the Beachcomber酒吧調酒師那里收集來的。有些配方是首次披露。這本書出版的時機非常關鍵。對知識的執著探究、歷史背景以及對細分原料的重視正好迎合2000年代的新興手工雞尾酒運動。很快，曾經飽受白眼的提基經典開始在世界各地重受青睞——從倫敦到舊金山，禁酒令時期雞尾酒單和現代主義的時髦雞尾酒單都出現了它們的身影。一時之間，隨著熱帶雞尾酒再度風靡，邁泰也擺脫了庸俗、不體面的形象，搖身一變成為受人尊敬的提基文化圖騰。Berry再接再厲地推出了多本提基文化著作，包括《醉！》、《禁忌桌》、《狩獵之旅淺酌》、《Beachbum Berry混調》和最新的《加勒比魔藥：熱帶酒飲五百年及其創作者》。這些著作披露了諸多提基配方，包括著名高烈度僵尸雞尾酒的原始配方。Berry還在個人網站beachbumberry.com上和讀者分享大量信息。提基的日益流行更催生了其他資源，比如thefloatingrumshack.com、tikiroom.com和rumdood.com，還有cheekytiki.com等網站推出的提基新品——它們的受眾都是仿波利尼西亞媚俗風格的愛好者。當然，這一切也有代價：1990年代，提基紀念品在舊貨店的價格近乎于白送，而在今天的拍賣網站上，提基原始時期的遺物往往都是巨額標價。

As far back as 1998, Berry published Beachbum Berry’s Grog Log. In it, he presents many of the so-called “lost” tiki recipes of the 1940-60s, which, apparently, he’d collected from former bartenders of the original Don the Beachcomber. Some of the recipes were revealed for the first time. The timing of the book was key. The obsessive geekery, historical context and emphasis on niche ingredients chimed perfectly with the then-emerging craft cocktail renaissance of the 2000s. Before long, once-reviled tiki classics began to appear among Prohibition-era cocktails and modernist serves on fashionable cocktail lists everywhere from London to San Francisco. Suddenly, as tropical drinks regained their cool, the Mai Tai was no longer considered a kitschy, faux-pas call cocktail but a revered totem of the tiki lexicon. Berry went on to corner the market in tiki books: Intoxica!, Taboo Table, Sippin’ Safari, Beachbum Berry Remixed and, more recently, Potions of the Caribbean: 500 Years of Tropical Drinks and the People Behind Them have revealed dozens of tiki recipes including what Berry believes to be the original recipe for the famed and highly potent Zombie. Berry also shares a wealth of information on his site beachbumberry.com. Other resources have sprung up as popularity has increased: thefloatingrumshack.com, tikiroom.com, rumdood.com and new tiki products from sites like cheekytiki.com – all cater to devotees of kitsch faux Polynesia. At a price, of course: in the 1990s, tiki memorabilia were available for next to nothing from thrift stores. Today, relics from the original tiki age can command huge sums on online auction sites.

當然，人們高漲的熱情催生了新一波提基酒吧。在倫敦，2006年開業的Trailer Happiness仍然是調酒師們所推崇的“提基小酒館”；在舊金山，2009年開業的Smuggler’s Cove由提基死忠Martin Cate掌管，他說自己一頁不落地讀過Berry的所有著作；在芝加哥，怪人調酒師Paul McGee在2013年開出了Three Dots and a Dash，酒吧名字源自Berry某本著作中的一款配方。此外，Beachbum Berry備受關注的自營酒吧于去年十月在新奧爾良開幕。這家名為Latitude 29的酒吧大受歡迎，但對Berry先生而言卻是一個挑戰：在將近五十年的時間里，他廣泛傳播提基知識，一大批酒吧應運而生，那么他自己的提基圣地該如何與其他酒吧區別開來呢？“我面臨的是全國性競爭，”他在Robertson撰寫的Eater網站文章中說，“現在簡簡單單地開一家提基酒吧是不夠的。我們必須提供一些特別的東西。” 他的對策的在酒單中使用一部分未發表過的秘密原料。在歷史上，1930年代至1940年代的原始提基配方是嚴格保密的，因為像垂德維克這樣的酒吧經常想抄襲Don the Beachcomber的配方。Latitude 29的秘密之一是雷姆斯伯格教授潘趣配方中使用的糖漿——它使用了九種原料。“我保密的原因正是為了這款潘趣，”他在酒吧開幕后說，“我不會將其發表。”

Of course, with this uptick in enthusiasm came a new wave of tiki bars. In London, Trailer Happiness opened in 2006 and is still considered a kind of cult, “tiki-dive” bolthole for bartenders; in San Francisco, Smuggler’s Cove opened in 2009 care of self-professed tiki obsessive Martin Cate who claims to have read all of Berry’s books cover to cover; in Chicago, Three Dots and a Dash opened in 2013 courtesy of eccentric bartender Paul McGee who named the bar after a recipe he uncovered in one of Berry’s books. Then, of course, there’s Beachbum Berry’s eagerly anticipated bar that opened in New Orleans in October last year. Latitude 29 was warmly received but represented a challenge for Mr Berry: how could he make his own temple of tiki distinct from other bars that had proliferated as a result of his nearly five decades of tiki scholarship? “I have to compete nationally now,” he said, in Robertson’s Eater article. “We can’t just open another tiki bar at this point. We have to bring something else to the table.” The solution was to use a number of unpublished secret ingredients on the menu. Traditionally, original tiki formulas of the 1930s to 1940s were a tightly guarded secret as bars at the time, such as Trader Vic’s, would often try to copy Don the Beachcomber’s recipes. One of the secrets at Latitude 29 is the recipe of a nine-ingredient syrup used to flavour the Professor Remsberg Punch. “I was holding on to [the recipe] just for this particular situation,” he said, after opening. “I won’t be publishing it.”

其他酒吧歷經興衰：2010年，三家酒吧在紐約開業，分別為Julie Reiner’s Lani Kai、Painkiller和Hurricane Club，但如今它們已全部停業，令人忍不住推測提基風潮是否再度消退。但這并非重點所在。即使有些提基酒吧關門大吉，這一酒飲風格仍然對現代調酒界有著深刻影響。無數現代主義雞尾酒都從提基文化中汲取靈感，比如Alex Kratena在2010年創作的Artesian潘趣使用了玩具鱷魚頭裝飾，再比如Marian Beke在倫敦Nightjar創作的提基風格雞尾酒。或許更重要的是，提基為現代調酒術重新注入了一種幽默感，沖淡了背帶、馬甲和昂貴調酒工具營造的嚴肅感。倫敦調酒權威人士Tony Conigliaro注意到了這一點，并于去年十月在GQ.com撰文，為提基復興大聲喝彩。“現在完全可以不那么嚴肅??重拾酷感的潮流回來了，調酒師們紛紛為雞尾酒增添趣味感。椰林飄香、蝎子雞尾酒和香蕉大吉利（其實任何用攪拌器做的酒幾乎都可以）極具人氣，似乎沒人覺得不好意思把它們放進酒單，更不用說喝它們了。”

Others bars have come and gone: in 2010, New York saw the opening of three venues: Julie Reiner’s Lani Kai, Painkiller and Hurricane Club – all since have shuttered, which prompted observers to wonder whether the tiki fad had, once again, finished. But that misses the point. Even if some tiki bars close, the genre’s influence can still be keenly felt in modern bartending. No end of modernist cocktails have taken ideas from the tiki mantle: think, the stuffed crocodile skull garnish of Alex Kratena’s Artesian Punch from his 2010 menu or, say, any number of Marian Beke’s tiki-inspired serves from Nightjar, London. Perhaps more importantly, tiki has also brought a playful sense of fun back to bartending, relieving some of the seriousness that had accompanied the braces, waistcoats and expensive bar tools of modern mixology. A point not missed on hallowed London tastemaker Tony Conigliaro who recently lauded the return of tiki-tending in an article for GQ.com in October last year. “Now it feels perfectly OK to stop being so serious… A backlash to being cool has arrived, and with it comes an infectious approach to having fun with cocktails. Pina Coladas, Scorpions and Banana Daiquiris (in fact pretty much anything made with a blender) are bang on point, and no one seems to be embarrassed about putting them on a menu anymore, let alone drinking them.”

Tiki Chi Tea

1. 提基元氣茶
由上海Tiki China何浩云創作

·30ml 香料朗姆酒
·300ml 奶茶*

*奶茶：800ml牛奶、450g印度茶、450g茴香籽、250g牛至、250g肉桂（棒）、300g黃糖。將所有原料放入平底鍋，用文火熬20-25分鐘。

將原料加熱后倒入提基馬克杯。

1. Tiki Chi Tea
By Jackie Ho at Tiki China, Shanghai

·30ml Spiced rum
·300ml Milk tea*

*Milk tea: 800ml milk; 450g Indian tea; 450g cumin seed; 250g oregano; 250g cinnamon (sticks); 300g brown sugar. Add all ingredients to a saucepan, simmer for 20-25 minutes.

Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass; strain over fresh ice and garnish with novelty pirate swizzle stick (or similar).
Heat ingredients and serve in a tiki mug.

Luau Daiquiri

2. 盧奧大吉利
由美國新奧爾良Latitude 29的Jeff “Beachbum” Berry創作

現代提基之父的大吉利改編版。

·60ml 白朗姆酒
·20ml 青檸汁
·20ml 橙汁
·15ml 香草糖漿

將所有原料倒入搖酒壺，搖勻后濾入冰過的碟形香檳杯。以提亞蕾花裝飾（其他無香白花亦可）。

2. Luau Daiquiri
By Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Latitude 29, New Orleans, USA

The godfather of modern tiki’s reboot of the classic Daiquiri.

·60ml White rum
·20ml Lime juice
·20ml Orange juice
·15ml Vanilla syrup

Add all ingredients to a shaker; shake and strain into a chilled coupette. Garnish with tiare blossom (or any unscented white flower).

Three Dots and a Dash

3. 三點一線
由美國芝加哥Three Dots and a Dash的Paul McGee創作

熱愛提基雞尾酒的大胡子調酒師Paul McGee表示，他在調酒時喜歡“用最少的原料營造出最多的風味”，但提基雞尾酒是個例外，“一切都是相對的”。這款包含八種原料的經典提基雞尾酒就是一個好例子，它原本于1940年代在Don the Beachcomber供應。

·30ml 迪肯陳年農業朗姆酒
·30ml 埃爾多拉多5年朗姆酒
·15ml 皮耶費朗柑橘利口酒
·15ml 蜂蜜糖漿
·15ml 法勒娜姆
·15ml 多香果利口酒
·30ml 青檸汁
·3滴 安高天娜苦精

將所有原料倒入搖酒壺，搖勻后濾入加滿碎冰的洛克杯。以菠蘿葉、菠蘿塊和一串櫻桃裝飾。

3. Three Dots and a Dash
By Paul McGee, Three Dots and a Dash, Chicago, USA

Beardy tiki-kitsch devotee Paul McGee says when making cocktails he likes to “achieve as much flavour with as few ingredients as possible”, that is, unless he’s making tiki drinks, “where it’s all relative”, as with this this eight-ingredient tiki classic originally served at Don the Beachcomber in the 1940s.

·30ml Duquesne Aged Rhum Agricole
·30ml Eldorado 5-year rum
·15ml Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao
·15ml Honey syrup
·15ml Falernum
·15ml Allspice Dram
·30ml Lime juice
·3ds Angostura bitters

Add all ingredients to shaker; shake and strain over crush ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with pineapple leaves, pineapple chunks and cherry skewer.

Three House

4. 樹屋

由美國紐約Lani Kai的Julie Reiner創作

紐約調酒師Julie Reiner對經典老式雞尾酒的“現代熱帶風格”改編，用黑麥威士忌和朗姆酒代替波本威士忌。

·30ml 瑞頓房黑麥威士忌
·30ml 高斯林黑封黑朗姆酒
·8ml Tiki Adam夏威夷果糖漿
·2滴 Bittermen’s Xocalatl Mole苦精

將所有原料在調酒杯中攪勻，濾入加滿新鮮冰的酒杯，以新奇的海盜斯維澤攪棒（或類似品）裝飾。

4. Tree House
By Julie Reiner, Lani Kai, New York, USA

New York bartender Julie Reiner’s “modern tropical”, rye-and-rum rework of the classic Old Fashioned.

·30ml Rittenhouse Rye
·30ml Goslings’ Black Seal Rum
·8ml Tiki Adam’s macadamia nut orgeat
·2ds Bittermen’s Xocalatl Mole bitters

Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass; strain over fresh ice and garnish with novelty pirate swizzle stick (or similar).